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Basque country and San Sebastian

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Scenes of San Sebastian

The Basque country

Straddling the border between France and Spain, the basque country is a region rich in history and is culturally unique. Indeed,  Basque people speak  a unique language, Euskara, which is unrelated to any other language in Europe. This distinctive linguistic heritage, along with a strong sense of identity and traditions, has long set the Basque Country apart.

San Sebastian, or Donostia in Basque, is one of the most famous cities in the Basque Country. Located on the Bay of Biscay, it has been a significant settlement since ancient times. San Sebastian rises to prominence in the 19th century as a fashionable seaside resort. Queen Isabel II of Spain helped popularise the city as a royal summer retreat, sparking a wave of aristocratic and bourgeois visitors.

basque country

Today, San Sebastian is renowned for its stunning beaches, such as La Concha and Zurriola. La Concha, with its crescent-shaped bay, is often considered one of the best city beaches in Europe. Zurriola, on the other hand, is a favorite among surfers. A maze of narrow streets filled with bars, restaurants, and shops make up the city’s picturesque old town, Parte Vieja. Significant landmarks include the Gothic Revival-style Buen Pastor Cathedral and the elegant Victoria Eugenia Theatre. The iron  artwork of San Sebastian native, Eduardo Chillida, defines the rugged caostline.

basque country art
Comb of the wind

San Sebastian cuisine

San Sebastian is a gastronomic paradise, boasting one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars per square metre in the world. The city’s pintxos, small snacks similar to tapas, are legendary. These bite-sized culinary delights are often enjoyed in the many bars of Parte Vieja, (old town) where hopping from one bar to another to sample different pintxos is a cherished tradition. Dishes like bacalao a la vizcaína (salted cod in a red pepper sauce) and txangurro (spider crab) showcase the region’s rich maritime heritage. Additionally, the Basque cider houses, known as sagardotegi, offer a unique dining experience where guests enjoy cider straight from the barrel. And don’t forget the famous Basque cheesecake which is a kind of rich burnt cream affair.

Basque cheesecake
Basque cheesecake

Where to stay in San Sebastian

If your budget allows, the place to stay in San Sebastian is the five-star Hotel Maria Cristina. The hotel  opened its doors on July 9, 1912, and it was Queen Regent María Cristina who crossed its threshold for the first time. The beautiful city had become one of the favourite destinations of the European aristocracy. Located on the banks of the Urumea river, this hotel epitomizes both luxury and history. Opened in 1912, the hotel was named after Spain’s Queen Maria Cristina, who frequented the city. The Belle Époque style of the hotel reflects the opulence of its early 20th-century origins, featuring grand architecture and lavish interiors. Over the years, the Maria Cristina hosts numerous celebrities and dignitaries. The brightest stars descend during the San Sebastian International Film Festival. This is an annual event drawing global attention to the city each September.

The hotel boasts 136 rooms and suites, each elegantly decorated and offering modern amenities while retaining a sense of historic grandeur. Guests can enjoy fine dining at the hotel’s restaurant, which offers a sophisticated take on traditional Basque cuisine. The Maria Cristina also features a stylish bar and a terrace with stunning river views.

The hotel is really close to San Sebastian’s many attractions. It’s a short walk from the old town, the beaches, and cultural landmarks. For those seeking a combination of cultural immersion, culinary excellence, and comfort, the Hotel Maria Cristina offers the full package.

marie cristina hote
Marie Cristina Hotel

History of the Maria Cristina Hotel

After some initial objections to its construction, the Hotel María Cristina became an integral part of the social, economic and cultural life of the city throughout its history. Over the years it has hosted presidents and luminaries from the worlds of art and literature.

At the beginning of the Civil War in July 1936 the Hotel which was one of the most emblematic buildings of the city, was occupied by a coup.  After two days of fighting the troops surrendered to the militiamen. Incredibly the building suffers little damage and even today some bullet holes are visible on its facade.

On September 21, 1953, the 1st Edition of the San Sebastian International Film Festival launches. The Hotel Maria Cristina becomes the Hotel of the Stars, film directors, producers, screenwriters, and journalists.

Basque country san sebastian
Relaxing in the bar at the Maria Cristina

San Sebastian Stars

Stars who have stayed at the Marie Christine read as a who’s who of the beautiful and famous. Old school Hollywood are represented by Elizabeth Taylor, Gregory Peck, Bette Davies, Audrey Hepburn, Peter Finch, and Robert Mitchum.  A newer galaxy includes Susan Sarandon, Al Pacino, Michael Douglas, Jeremy Irons,  John Malkovich, Anthony Hopkins and Michael Caine, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Chris Hemsworth and Bradley Cooper. I could go on! This year Cate Blanchett will receive a Donostia Award at the 72nd San Sebastian Festival. The Australian actress and producer and winner of two Academy Awards, will receive the event’s highest honorary award.

In the sixties, individual bathrooms were added to all its rooms and the furniture and decoration were improved. The eighties brought a drop in tourism and the Hotel declined. The City Council buys the hotel to ensure its preservation. In June 1985, the hotel is remodelled and returns to its former glory. It reopens in 1987.

basque country hotel
Maria looks down on the breakfast room

Basque country – the Maria Cristina today

Today the hotel remains a jewel in the crown of San Sebastian and the Basque Country. Its elegant decor is very much in keeping with the Belle Epoque style. The whole hotel with its grand ‘Gone with the Wind’ staircases has a real air of serene luxury. The staff are attentive and very friendly. The face of Maria Cristina herself is everywhere in paintings and the decoration around the hotel. It is now part of the  Marriot International chain under its Luxury Collection brand. In conclusion, the Basque Country has a unique history and culture.  San Sebastian is a lovely city with its captivating blend of natural beauty and culinary innovation. If you get the chance, do stay at the opulent Maria Cristina Hotel, and experience a destination that offers a rich and unforgettable experience for any traveller.

San Sebastian
Lobby of the Maria Cristina

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