The very best of Cordoba

Cordoba in Andalusia

The Andalusian city of Cordoba is situated inland, and so does not have the beaches of the Costa del Sol. However, it has more than enough attractions to make up for it. A magical and ancient city, it nestles on the banks of the great Guadalquivir River. In Roman times this river was navigable all the way from the port of Cadiz.

I have visited many other destinations in Andalusia, and was consequently keen to explore this lesser known area of Spain’s most Southerly province. And what a revelation this city is! Coupled with a captivating history and stunning architecture, you will also experience gourmet food and beautiful flower filled courtyards. A delight for all the senses.

Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral

Firstly, I was not expecting the majesty of Cordoba’s breath taking Mosque-Cathedral. The thing that strikes you about the building is its monumental size. It is absolutely enormous! First a Muslim structure, and later a Christian one. The two distinct religious styles still exist side by side. This was once the most important mosque in the Islamic kingdom. Home to the powerful Caliphate of Cordoba.

Secondly, the design of its high striped red and white double arches in the vast main hall is stunning. Repeat patterns based on natural forms is a feature of Islamic art. You see such patterns at the Alhambra Palace in Granada too.

The Moors plundered the sites of previous settlements for the jasper, onyx, marble and granite needed to build these fabulous structures. Ceiling height and size were a way to express how rich and powerful you were,

In 1236 Cordoba was recaptured by the Christian King Ferdinand III. While Ferdinand did not destroy the building, he promptly consecrated it as Christian, with a good sprinkling of holy water.

This was probably a pragmatic act. It would have cost a huge amount to rebuild anything as comparably impressive. It gives us the opportunity to witness firsthand, the clash of cultures and religions as told through this amazing architectural piece of history.

Cordoba and the Andalusian Horse

The Andalusian horse is a special animal. This pure bred Spanish horse was created in the 15^th Century. They mixed the heavier strong original Iberian breed, with the elegance of the Arab horse.

Andalusian horses are calm, intelligent and extremely athletic. Historically they were used as war horses and are known for their ability to carry out complicated dressage moves. These moves have been developed from the horse’s natural behaviours.

A long held dream of mine was riding a white Andalusian horse on the beach in Spain, which I eventually did some years ago. It was such a pleasure for me to see this amazing equestrian show in Cordoba on a hot summer evening.

The Passion and Spirit of Andalusian Horse Equestrian Show performs nightly in an arena inside the Fort. We view the original Royal Stables next to the arena before the show starts.

These horses are the pinnacle of their breed. They are highly trained, and their riders display great skill. Even if you aren’t a horse person, I recommend you see this show. You will definitely be impressed by what these elegant animals can do.

Where to eat in Cordoba

Ermita de La Candelaria

Located in the heart of Cordoba down a narrow cobbled street, the restaurant nestles within an old hermitage. The entrance looks ordinary, but once inside it is pure elegance. Eating at this restaurant is definitely a luxury experience. You can dine in a choice of airy dining rooms and courtyards, and be served a superb gourmet menu.

Classic Cordoban dishes appear at the table, served by attentive staff. An exceptional Spanish wine selection accompanies our meal. We enjoy beautifully braised oxtail and a creamy Russian salad. Orange ice cream with olive oil is a delicious pallet refresher. This is fine Spanish cuisine at its best.

Puerta Sevilla

This charming Taverna is a stone’s throw from the Cordoba Fort. It is also close to the Andalusian Horse Show experience. A door on a white washed corner of the square opens. It leads through to a superb traditional restaurant set in and around a flower filled atrium. The space hangs with greenery and Julio Romero de Torres prints. Delicious food is on offer here along with a lively atmosphere.  Alberto Rosales Ortega and his wife Antonia are very welcoming hosts.

We enjoy fine artichokes braised in a wine reduction. Delicious Ajo Blanco or “white gazpacho” follows. This is kind of cold soup thickened with almond and bread.

The restaurant also serves natural Andalusian wines, as well as many other varieties from all over Spain.

Mercado Victoria

The Mercado Victoria is the first gastronomic market in Andalusia. Housed in a nineteenth century forging building it is surrounded by lush gardens. This gourmet street food market is buzzing with people eating and enjoying themselves. Things get busy after dark, due to the cooler temperature.

There are dozens of stalls selling local specialties and other cuisines from all over the world. Purchase tickets for the market and then spend them as you like on the different selections. Alcoholic and soft drinks are available and there are lots of break out terraces for you to sit down and eat. Or why not try the live music venue next door and join in the dancing!

 

Patios of Cordoba

Cordoba is famous for its patios or courtyards filled with flowers. Plants and fountains bring vibrant splashes of colour and moisture to this hot dry climate.

The Cordobans celebrate the annual Courtyard Festival and Contest. During this time residents open their beautiful indoor/outdoor spaces to the public. It transports you away from the hot busy city into a cool oasis. Watering of plants is only in the traditional manner, with no automatic watering systems allowed. We watch as one lady waters some of her plants way up on the wall. She uses a tin can tied to a long bamboo stick. It really is a labour of love!

The patio festival is a tradition which began in 1918. The patios of Cordoba are now a World Heritage attraction as designated by UNESCO.

The annual Balconies and Grilles contest happens in May. Although we arrive in June, so we get to see most of the floral abundance still at its best.

Personally these are my type of gardens – the ones you can use as outside rooms of your house. Who doesn’t enjoy sitting outside chatting to friends or family on a warm summer evening. Your own little piece of heaven.

What to see in Cordoba

The palace of Viana is another grand site and very much worth adding to your itinerary. A stately home from the 15^th to the 19^th centuries it is linked to the marquisate of Cordoba. Owned by the Marquis of Viana, it passed down to the third Marchioness, who had no heirs. The Palace is now the property of the Fundacion CajaSur.

A huge rabbit warren of rooms containing countless treasures, the palace has original works by Julio Romero de Torres too. Besides the paintings, equally important is the abundance of ornate furniture and other precious artefacts to be found here.

One thing which caught my eye was the Gallery of the Azulejo Tiles. It is one of the few collections of this type in the world. The designs vary but many are generally heraldic in nature. In fact, some of these stunning ceramic examples are more than eight centuries old.

There are some huge and impressive paintings of battles from the thirty Years’ War. They depict horses, troops and even cannons going off on the battlefield. Fine tapestries show animals and plants representing the discovery of the Americas.

The Palace reveals collections of hunting arms, ornate glass and porcelain. Huge regal crystal chandeliers and beautiful detailed ceilings carved in wood amaze the eye. This is an extraordinary collection and documents how the nobility lived over different centuries.

Surrounding the Palace are twelve beautiful and different courtyards. Each has its own types of plants and personality. Different species of flowers tiles and fountains mark out each courtyard to turn them into a spectacle of the five senses.

The Julio De Torres Museum

This museum celebrates the career of one of the great painters of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Julio Romero de Torres was born and lived all of his life in Cordoba, and the museum is housed in his lifelong home. He captured the spirit of the people of this Southern city on numerous canvases.

Although in general a portrait artist, Torres is notably also inspired by the culture of flamenco. In his art, he celebrates the beauty of Spanish women as they capture the true spirit of the beautiful city he knew so well.

Cordoba where to stay

Indeed we are very lucky to experience the best of Cordoba during our trip. Finally, thanks go to the excellent organisational skills of Philipp Heuri Temboury, Head of Promotions at the Andalusia tourist board. Also our lovely guide Rafael Soldevilla deserves a mention. These guys know their city as well as anyone and we could not have had better hosts.

The city made quite an impression on me. It captures the colourful complex character of Southern Spain, and the stunning region of Andalusia. We stay at the Eurostar Palace, a modern 5 star hotel in a great location. This is a great base from which to explore this wonderful city.

To me Cordoba is beautiful horses, tumbling vibrant flowers, strong sunshine and fascinating history. The culture is colourful and the food is most certainly fantastic too!  This is a special Spanish city which will have a place in my heart now for good.

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