Stonehenge stone circle in Spring
A visit to Stonehenge stone circle was very much on my bucket list. In his poem ‘Home thoughts from abroad,’ Robert Browning wrote, ‘Oh to be in England Now that April’s there.’ The long light nights of the English summer are arguably the best time to visit this special part of the UK.
Spring in England sees the roads come alive with frothy white May blossom. Hope for the perfect summer hangs in the air. Our recent road trip along part of the Great West Way, took us from sleepy historic Salisbury to the magical henges and white horses of Wiltshire, through to buzzing Bath and the best spa treatment I have ever experienced.
Historic Salisbury
Our base for the first night is the recently refurbished Milford Hall Hotel. This charming four-star hotel is tucked away on the edge of the ancient cathedral city of Salisbury. It’s a peaceful spot—just far enough from the bustle of the city centre to feel secluded, yet a short stroll from its historic core. The hotel itself, with its Georgian elegance and modern comforts, feels like a well-chosen blend of the old and the new. The staff are friendly and the food is very good. After settling in, we wandered into town, passing quiet streets edged with half-timbered buildings.
The highlight, of course, is Salisbury Cathedral. It rises suddenly and dramatically above the rooftops, its 123-metre spire—the tallest in Britain—piercing the blue spring sky. Inside, we marvelled at the soaring gothic architecture, and saw one of the original Magna Carta manuscripts housed in the Chapter House, a physical reminder of England’s political past. The famous author William Golding taught here at the boy’s cathedral school.
Onward to the Stonehenge Inn
From Salisbury, we drove northeast, following the Great West Way’s winding course through the countryside. It is a quintessentially English drive. Green rolling downs, and more waterfalls of white Hawthorn lead us on to ancient discoveries.
Wiltshire’s White Horses and a Purple Surprise
Continuing our adventure, we headed further into Wiltshire’s heartland. This is a county famed for its chalk white horses, enormous hillside equines carved into the downs over centuries. We chose to climb up to the Pewsey White Horse, one of the oldest and most accessible of the figures, etched into Pewsey Hill in 1937.
The climb is short but steep – our reward is sweeping views of the Vale of Pewsey. A huge field of stunning purple phacelia lay before us. These nectar-rich flowers stretch like a royal cloak across the landscape. Phacelia are often grown as a cover crop providing haven for pollinating bees and butterflies.
Next we visit Avebury with its large grouping of over 100 standing stones of various sizes, spread in procession across the landscape.
The Stonehenge Inn, is where we stay next. This is a family-friendly pub with a twist. Nestled near Amesbury, this spot is not only a welcoming place to eat and rest, but also home to several charming shepherds’ huts tucked behind the main building. These huts are a delight—cosy, rustic, and surprisingly adorned with cheerful original artwork from a local artist. There’s even an old railway carriage you can stay in here and an exact mini replica of Stonehenge just outside the pub on the opposite verge. The Stonehenge Inn itself is lively and relaxed, with hearty meals and plenty of local ales on tap.
Stonehenge stones
A short drive from the Stonehenge Inn and we reached its namesake at dusk. Stonehenge—silent, stoic, and steeped in mystery—has for centuries stood as one of the world’s most iconic monuments. English Heritage operates the site – now protected behind perimeter ropes. We were however, lucky enough to have an exclusive Stonehenge Inner Circle Access Pass which offers a more privileged experience. We stand among these ancient stones at dusk, the towering sarsen stones casting long shadows as the sun sets, the atmosphere thick with magic, reverence, and the weight of 5,000 years of history.
This is not just sightseeing—it is time travel for the soul.
Stonehenge stone circle
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Stonehenge stone circle has fascinated scholars, spiritualists, and curious visitors for centuries. The first monument is an early henge monument, built about 5,000 years ago, and the unique stone circle is erected in the late Neolithic period, at about 2500 BC.
Stonehenge is more than a circle of standing stones—it’s a cosmic clock, a place of ceremony, or maybe a prehistoric temple aligned with the sun and the stars.
How and why it was built remains an enduring enigma. The stones, some weighing up to 25 tons, were hauled from as far as 150 miles away—an engineering feat that defies the logic of its age. Theories range from it being a place for Druidic rites and burial grounds to a celestial observatory. I felt it was as close to a time portal as I was going to get in my lifetime.
A Rustic Retreat at Cocklebury Farm
After Stonehenge we headed deep into the countryside to find Bee Cottage on Cocklebury Farm. This is a working beef farm near Calne run by the wonderfully welcoming Mark and his family. The cottage itself is a cosy stable conversion with all mod cons and an outside fire pit, perfect for those summer evenings. This is a dark sky area and the stars here reveal themselves easily to the naked eye as there is little light pollution.
The highlight of our time there was the wildlife walk with Mark, who is as much a naturalist as a farmer. He took us through his meadows, pointing out his badger sets, grazing deer, chasing hares and soaring Red Kites. Five kestrel eggs are in the nest box. Each field has its own name (plane field was named after a light aircraft that crashed there.) They create the perfect habitat for different types of wildlife. Onwards to the city of Bath!
“Oh! Who can be ever tired of Bath?”
Jane Austen wrote in Northanger Abbey A jewel of English heritage, the city of Bath is famed for its Georgian beauty, Roman heritage, and literary legacy. On the last night of our trip we stayed at the Gainsborough Bath Spa Hotel.
For those with a taste for luxury, this hotel offers the ultimate indulgence. A five-star haven housed in an elegant Grade II listed building, the Gainsborough blends classic architecture with contemporary comfort. The staff here make every guest feel personally welcome.
Created by award winning Champalimaud Design, rooms and suites at the Gainsborough Bath Spa are custom finished. Afternoon tea is a favourite, but the piece de resistance of the hotel is its world class spa.
The healing mineral-rich waters of Bath have been flowing for thousands of years. The Gainsborough is the only hotel spa with a private source from these famous springs. The Spa Village uses its special access to create pools of differing temperatures. There are also two saunas, a steam room and ice alcove. Guests enjoy complimentary access in the mornings and evenings and the whole complex nestles beneath a glass atrium.
A World Class Spa
The spa itself offers an impressive range of premium treatments. A selection of curative mineral-based treatments are on offer. The intent is to intensify the properties of the mineral-rich waters, easing muscles and joints, reducing inflammation, and detoxifying the body.
Golden Body Treatment
I tried the incredible Colliodal Gold Scrub and Body Massage. This is 85 Minutes of the most luxurious body treatment to repair and soften skin. This treatment utilises the proven anti-inflammatory properties of gold, which helps to heal micro-damage in the skin and tissues. An ultra-hydrating full-body massage using hot stones follows an gentle exfoliation using gold-enriched sugar. Next, a dreamy-scented shimmer oil containing Colloidal Gold is applied which feels like silk on the skin. This really is the ultimate. I felt energised and uplifted for quite some hours after this special experience.
The Roman Baths and Jane Austen
No trip to Bath is complete without visiting the Roman Baths themselves, just a stone’s throw from the hotel. This incredibly well-preserved site offers a glimpse into daily life nearly two millennia ago. Walk among the steaming pools, listen to the ancient murmurs of Aquae Sulis, and sip the mineral-rich spring water from the traditional Pump Room, if you’re feeling brave.
This year, Bath also celebrates one of its most famous residents—Jane Austen—with a series of events, exhibitions, and guided walks. The famed author of Pride and Prejudice and Persuasion lived in Bath in the early 19th century, and the city features prominently in her novels.
The Great West Way has much to offer from the iconic stonehenge stone circle to the historic city of Bath and the delightful countryside of Pewsey Vale. Our four day road trip reminds us just what wonders exist right here on our very own doorstep.
The Stone Circle Experience is £70 for adults (18+) and £40 for children aged 5-17. English Heritage Member discounts are available.