Historic properties to stay in on Jersey
Jersey Heritage offers historic properties to stay in on the channel island of jersey. It is a charity dedicated to protecting Jersey’s unique culture and heritage. As a British outpost within sight of France, an often hostile enemy, the Channel Islands were once a frontier on the edge of a war zone. This means that this small island has more than its fair share of fortifications and military constructions designed to protect the borders from foreign invaders.
Today, through Jersey Heritage you can have the extraordinary opportunity to stay in some of these amazing buildings. Many are now converted into comfortable self catering accommodation for groups or families.
Fort Leicester
Fort Leicester is one of the incredible historic properties looked after and let out by Jersey Heritage.
The Fort is at the very end of Bouley Bay, one of the most beautiful bays on Jersey. The shallow waters are ideal for swimming and residents and visitors alike arrive daily to swim from the shore and from the small pier. Across the sea from here is Normandy, France. My phone got very confused and though it was working on French time which confused me too.
History of Fort Leicester
Fortifications here date back to the 16th century and the fort was named after the Earl of Leicester, Queen Elizabeth’s favourite. The fort and its outbuildings survive as they were built and remain undamaged. It sits at the very top of the peninsula of Bouley Bay, and is basically constructed on three levels.
This is one of jersey Heritage’s flagship heritage properties. It is a property you can hire and it caters for up to 8 people. After you ascend to the first level up long flight of steep steps you come to an open space and the bunker building where the sitting area and kitchen are. There is a lovely balcony area so you can dine al fresco with the very best views out over the bay.
Access is via a key box which I did struggle to find at first. I’m not quite sure what the locals thought as I tried to elicit their help back down at bay level. ‘Do you know how to get into that Fort?’ I enquired gesturing to the Fort up above me. I don’t think there were any others to choose from.
Luckily Zoe from Jersey Heritage came to the rescue as I called her from Mad Mary’s Beach Café somewhat frustrated with my failure to gain access!
Historic properties – Finding your way around the Fort
The second level of the fort is up another set of fearsomely steep external stairs. It houses a bedroom next door to the only bathroom. Talk about a loo with a view! The third set of external steps takes you up to the second bedroom. This a lovely room dappled by sunlight through its high casement windows with an open log fire you can use in winter. You fall asleep to the sound of the ocean carrying up the cliff side to your protected eyrie.
You need to take your own supplies but basics like bread butter milk and tea bags are provided. Breakfast may be taken down in the bay at Mad Mary’s Beach café. Mary is a friendly and helpful Irish lady now resident in Jersey. She can rustle up a mean breakfast, not to mention a first rate apple pie with delicious Jersey Ice Cream. A huge hotel remains closed and neglected overlooking the bay. The surf shop is the only other business I can really see doing a brisk trade down here at the seaside.
If you don’t have a car there is a limited bus service up the super steep bank. I caught the 11.30am bus and travelled across the island to St Helier for my next heritage stay.
Elizabeth Castle
As you walk along the coastline a short distance from the centre of St Helier you will see huge amounts of modern construction of smart waterfront apartments and amenities to accompany them. Look beyond that and you will see a huge castle out to sea across a tidal causeway. The castle has been in situ for an awful lot longer. Built on a tidal island in St Aubin’s Bay and dating from the 16th century onwards, Elizabeth Castle defended Jersey for more than 400 years.
Today it’s a very safe place to visit and a fascinating day out with activities scheduled throughout the day. Stories are told by the gunner in uniform, cannons are fired (blanks) and muskets discharged. King Charles II can be seen wandering about (he sought refuge here during the civil war) There is a small exhibition about the history of gunpowder and the coming of the cannon. You may even find yourself taking part in parade and marching about the parade ground in unison with your fellow visitors. This is another historic property you can stay in for a real castle experience.
Reaching this historic property
You can reach the castle by foot across the causeway if the tide is out. It takes about 15 minutes at a steady pace. Otherwise there is the thrill of a ride on a fabulous amphibious vehicle, Betty. Betty operates both as a bus and changes into a boat as the tide rolls in quickly. It’s a short trip but it can get a bit rocky if the sea gets frisky and these crossings are always at the mercy of the winds and the tides.
The castle spreads out over a huge 15 acre area and there are a number of levels you can climb around on including right to the very top of the castle. The view from there is stunning. You can see for miles out over the turquoise sea back to the shore which looks more like something from the Maldives than the British Isles.
Parts of the castle have scaffolding up and they are restoring more of the buildings on the site including the Georgian Military hospital and the officer quarters.
Historic properties – The castle apartment.
Historic properties don’t come much better than this. We stayed for a couple of nights in the castle apartment facing the parade square. This well appointed and very comfortable house can sleep up to six people and gives you private access to the whole castle site after hours. You can really be Queen of your own castle! You can climb the battlements, explore the turrets and bunkers and even swim from the Castle’s private beach.
This is a unique experience and its lot of fun to have so much space all to yourself. Bear in mind that it is not advised to cross the causeway after dark. So you must be back on the island by the last Betty crossing. We had a restaurant already booked one evening and so Chris the Guardian came especially to take us back by jeep across the dark causeway upon our return which was very much appreciated.
The Atlantic Hotel
We were lucky enough to dine at an amazing restaurant called the Ocean Restaurant at the Atlantic Hotel. This beautiful luxury hotel has amazing views out over the ocean and its very fine restaurant is a real treat. This is the place to go on Jersey if you’d really want to push the boat out. This is a 4AA Rosette dining experience and we were able to select from the a la carte menu. Local seafood is its specialty. Executive Chef Will Holland’s menus demonstrate his passion for seasonal produce and showcases the finest ingredients from the island’s fields and shores.
The jersey crab with co conut and celeriac panna cotta starter was a divine taste combination. My butter roasted turbot fillet with spring onion and coriander was equally delicious. Fresh buttered local Jersey potatoes are a must have side. The wine list is extensive with three cellars and 3000 wines to choose from. Our sommelier did an impressive job of pairing the wines with each course. The service was top notch and if you’re not on a budget, I can highly recommend a visit to this elegant, excellent eatery.
Jersey Heritage properties
Elizabeth Castle has many charms. I take a shine to Betty the amphibious vehicle. There is another vehicle called Nancy but she was resting. I liked the castle’s friendly feel. The role of this mighty building was mainly defensive but she was occupied by the Nazis during WWII.
Elizabeth Castle is a true piece of living history. If you get the chance to be a tiny part of it then I can highly recommend a visit there.
Jersey Heritage actually has fourteen incredibly different heritage properties across the island and you can stay in all of them. They are popular in summer but they are also open in the wintertime and are 40% cheaper too. This a special little island with a big part to play in UK history and it has own very distinct identity.
