Dordogne Valley: Time Travel in Style
If you’ve ever wondered what it might feel like to tumble into a French fairy tale, the Dordogne Valley in south-western France should be top of the list. Here the magnificent Dordogne River winds its way through lush, deep, velvety countryside. The air smells faintly of truffles, chestnuts and wood smoke, and the echo of history stretches back 40,000 years.
This corner of Nouvelle-Aquitaine is full of medieval towns, glowing with yellow sandstone. These towns are laid out with military precision and still look utterly charming to this day. Locals gather in their squares to eat, drink, and gossip in this deliciously eccentric time warp.
The valley has become one of the top choices for expat Brits looking for a slice of the good life. Whether they’re escaping city stress, or simply seeking better baguettes, the British have been falling under the Dordogne’s spell for decades.
The Bastides:
The Dordogne is known for its Medieval Bastides. Bastides are fortified towns planned and constructed on a precise grid pattern during the 13th century. Monpazier is a perfect example. Built under the orders of Edward I of England it’s so perfect it could be a film set and indeed, it often is.
Monpazier’s streets lead you inevitably to its central square, where locals and newcomers gather beneath the honey-coloured arcades, stuffed with chi chi shops, for the weekly market. Stalls display the region’s freshest produce, including foie gras, for which this area is famous. Boar sausages, with shallot puree and creamy cep soup are a welcome lunch option au plein air.
Dordogne Valley. The Gardens of Eyrignac
The Gardens of Eyrignac, are near Salignac-Eyvigues. Seven hectares of perfectly clipped topiary, symmetrical lines, and playful green geometry are great fun to explore. The formal gardens seen today were created by Gilles Sermadiras de Pouzols de Lile starting in the 1960s, after he decided to restore the estate to its original French style. Today, his son continues as the garden’s custodian. This is a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon and has a great view out over the wider valley.
The Grotte de Maxanges
Do not miss this amazing attraction! The Grotte de Maxanges, discovered only in 2000 is one of those geological miracles that remind you just how creative nature can be. Hidden away near Le Buisson-de-Cadouin, this magical grotto glitters with fantastical mineral formations — slender stalactites, and stunning starburst calcite flowers, A silent cathedral sculpted by time, it is easy to imagine the first humans here, awed into silence, painting animals on the walls by firelight. The two men who discovered the cave give it its name and the attraction remains a family concern with son Olivier Cabellero joining the team of father and grandfather. This is a lovely thing to do for all the family and quite exceptional in the types of cave formations within,
The Cradle of Cro-Magnon
The Dordogne is not just scenic, it’s the birthplace of us all. The National Museum of Prehistory at Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil is in the middle of the “Cradle of Cro-Magnon Man.” Here, amid limestone cliffs and winding rivers, early humans left behind their mark. Tools, carvings, jewellery and, most famously, the glorious painted caves of Lascaux.
Incredible artefacts abound in this fascinating museum. Flint axe heads and bone ornaments bring our ancestors to life. A giant ancient mammoth welcomes you in the reception. There are many other reconstructions of what our ancient relatives looked like, together with some of the formidable animals they hunted. Megaloceros, the giant elk was one such impressive ruminant.
Dark History; Maison Forte de Reignac
Of course, no fairy tale is complete without a dark underside. The Maison Forte de Reignac fits this bill. Perched on a Cliffside, this “fortified house” is equal parts castle and cave. This extraordinary structure emerges straight from the rock face.
Inside, the stone dwelling swallows you inside a labyrinth of ancient rooms frozen in time. Heavy furniture and dubious mannequins representing past domestic scenes, populate the dark rooms. Stuffed animals watch you with beady glass eyes following you around the room. Once home to nobles, and later a site of sinister happenings, it now doubles as a museum of medieval torture, not for the faint-hearted. The range of grusome devices created to inflict as much pain and suffering as possible, sent a real shiver down my spine.
Dordogne Valley – Vines and wines
After all that history you’ll need a glass of something. Fortunately, the Dordogne’s boutique vineyards are quietly producing some of France’s most underappreciated wines. Seek out Château Terre Vieille, nestled in the rolling hills near Bergerac. Here, passionate vintners coax Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the sun-drenched soil.
A tasting here is not a rushed affair. It’s a conversation with the family, accompanied, of course, by some fine French cheese. It’s little wonder that many a visiting Brit has been known to leave with a case or two of these elegant reds.
Where to stay:
Le Vieux Logis in Trémolat, once a 16th-century priory, is now an upmarket relais and chateaux country retreat. Four members of the staff working here for decades now own this beautiful property after the owner passed away without an obvious heir. The interiors are all authentic French furniture, quirky artwork, and cozy fireplaces. The grounds are very Alice in Wonderland with corridors of topiary, animal statues and an old mill stream. Lavender beds and ancient trees invite exploratory walks.
And then there’s the food. The hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant is reason enough to visit: a celebration of Dordogne’s finest produce, from foie gras to truffles to the region’s incomparable cream. Each dish arrives like a small, edible artwork, best enjoyed with a glass of something ruby-red and local.
It’s the epitome of French indulgence.
A classic turreted chateau set in stunning grounds, Chateau De Maraval is recently refurbished in a very contemporary style. Don’t forget to try their signature welcome cocktail made with chestnut liqueur and local cider.
Another traditional hotel Le Centenaire in Les Eyzies, offers cosy accommodation and has a great restaurant. Or try the Domaine de Rochebois a delightful French hotel with fine food, large large comfortable rooms and a spa.
Market days and a good lunch that lasts well into the afternoon are part of the attraction of the Dordogne . It has a way of seducing you slowly, one glass of Bergerac, and one ancient valley view at a time.
