Vikings in Sweden
Vikings have captured the imaginations of all ages for centuries. TV series like Vikings and films like The Northman have put Ragnar Lothbrok, Harald Fine hair and Erik the red on the map. They are familiar names to the Viking aficionado. Vikings are often portrayed as bloodthirsty warriors but there’s a lot more to these seafaring Scandinavians who were also dedicated farmers and master ship builders. We discover they are accomplished sailors and skilled craftspeople too. I travelled to Sweden to find out more about their lives and origins.
Where to stay in Uppsala
We begin at Uppsala and stay at the Elite Hotel Academia which is a stone’s throw from both bus and train stations. This establishment has the best hotel breakfast I’ve had in a long time, I am a big fan of the knackebrod (hard rye crispbread) together with gorgeous Swedish cream cheese. The hotel is a short walk from the centre of Uppsala with its restaurants shops and University. A very cool rooftop Asian fusion restaurant, Miss Voon, is on the 11th floor, where we dined on our first night there. Drinking champagne on the sunny rooftop with our group about to set out on a Viking adventure on my first visit to Scandinavia was quite exciting. Skal!
Gamla Uppsala
Uppsala, is a charming University City North of Stockholm, with a beautiful cathedral. Close by is Gamla Uppsala, an ancient site close by which holds great significance for Viking history and mythology. Once the centre of pagan worship it was also the political heart of Sweden during the Viking age. There are ancient burial mounds all over the site and a very good museum. Although one of the mounds is excavated, the Viking tradition of burning their dead along with their possessions meant that only a small pot of ashes was discovered inside. Close examination reveals some indication of the items that have been cremated.
You will see some original Viking armour and artefacts. You can even dress up as a Viking. Why not try out some Viking weapons and have a tame skirmish or two. I also displayed my prowess with a bow and arrow. There’s a virtual reality experience where you can put on a visor and experience walking around the Viking site up to the Viking longhouse and explore the interior. Its best to do this sitting down as it may make you feel rather dizzy! Gamla Uppsala is a picturesque spot in early summer.
Gunnesgard and the Old Uppsala museum
Gunnesgard is a reconstruction of a Viking farm from the beginning of the 11th century and also well worth a visit. We meet a few role playing Vikings who regale us with a long winded Viking story while our Viking lunch is being prepared. Vikings needed to pass those long dark winter days and nights, so long winded stories were quite an important pass time! Vikings were actually largely pescatarian, with meat only being available occasionally. A kind of barley porridge was their main stay with yoghurt, seasonal berries and herbs and plenty of knackebrod. We met some Viking farm animals including a charming Viking pig, described by his keeper as having a ‘humorous and curious’ personality.
Swedish Fika
Another charming place to stay in Uppsala is the Hotel Villa Anna We visited while we were there in order to try their exceptional Fika. Around 3pm in the afternoon the Swedish enjoy a break for some delicious Fika. Less formal than our own afternoon tea tradition this coffee and cake break is very much a cultural tradition. The Swedish love their pastries and in particular the cinnamon bun. “Let’s do Fika,” is always a welcome overture. The Hotel Anna provided cinnamon buns, rhubarb pie, chocolate cake and numerous delicious home made biscuits in a lovely setting. The Swedish are particular about good coffee too!
Stockholm
We arrive next in Stockholm, the capital of Sweden. Built across 14 islands, the city has more than 50 bridges built on an extensive Baltic Sea archipelago. A kind of Baltic Venice. The cobblestone streets and ochre-coloured buildings of Gamla Stan (the old town) are home to the 13th-century Storkyrkan Cathedral, and the Kungliga Slottet Royal Palace. Ferries and sightseeing boats shuttle passengers between the islands. We stay at the fine Hasselbacken Hotel This grand hotel is very central for all the museums on Djurgarden island and is popular with tourists and site seeing groups. If you’re looking for a solid hotel with easy access to both the city center and airport, the Story Hotel Signalfabriken is also a well-regarded choice.
The Viking Museum
This Museum is just 6 years old and is situated on Djurgarden, the island of Museums in Stockholm. It is an interactive experience and you will meet real life Vikings telling the stories of their ancestors and learn more about their daily lives and customs. The Vikings didn’t have wine as it was too cold to grow grapes, but they did have mead, a strong honey based brew. We tried several different varieties flavoured with different herbs and plants in the fine restaurant here. The entire Skarsgard family (Hollywood actors from Sweden) actually descended on the Museum for the opening party for the film ‘The Northman which starred Alexander Skarsgard!’
There are many museums on this island, including the Vasa museum. This is a maritime museum showing an almost fully intact 17th century 64 gunship. The salvage effort recovers it, years after after it sank on its maiden voyage. There is a huge outdoor museum, Skansen, where you can see how Swedes used to live too. There is also an ABBA museum. I came in for a lot of criticism back home for my decision not to visit this particular venue.
Vikings in Sweden – Birka
We catch the ferry to find the archaeological site of Birka. Birka was Scandinavia’s largest trading point from 750 to 950AD. There is surviving evidence of a town, harbours and a hill fort. There are also over 3000 Viking-age graves here. It seems it was the place to be buried. Hovgarden – the hall of Kings is also there. It was the King of Hovgarden who controlled and protected this trading town. Birka and Hovgarden join the World Heritage List in 1993. Evidence of goods traded like glass, silk, pottery and silver coins from the east have been found. These were probably exchanged for iron, horns and furs. Iron is still a major Swedish export to this day.
The Viking Shield Maiden
One of the most significant archaeological discoveries related to Shield Maidens is a grave site in Birka, that was excavated in the late 19th century. The grave contains the remains of a warrior buried with a full set of weapons and armor, including a sword, spear, and shield. It was long thought to contain the remains of a male warrior. But then, in 2017, DNA analysis proved it was actually a woman! Some people are still reluctant to accept this strong evidence but it seems pretty convincing. She has her two best horses by her side, one of the few graves in which this honour is found.
Reading the Runes
Sweden is home to the most rune stones in the world. These large raised stones are carved with words and pictures of dragons and snakes. Often they are tributes to the dead, but they also speak of prophecies and stories in Old Norse. These stones were common in Viking times and the land around Uppsala is home to many rune stones often relocated from elsewhere. The Vikings in Sweden considered these stone memorials important and often placed them at the sides of roads where they could be seen by passers by.
Land of the midnight sun.
Sweden is an ordered, very clean and tidy country. As you descend into Stockholm on the plane all you can see are lakes and green forests and it is extremely pretty. The spring and summer are a lovely time to visit when it doesn’t get dark until midnight, and it’s light again at about 3am.Another great place to stay in central Stockholm is the Hyatt Story Hotel Signalfabiken
Most people know a bit about Sweden from their visits to IKEA. In fact taking the family out for meatballs, chips and flat pack furniture is something the Swedish like to do too. Sweden is a large country covered in managed forests (hence the furniture.) It has a relatively small population of about 9 million people – less than the population of London!
This is a lovely country for a short summer break. If the life and history of Vikings in Sweden intrigues, you will find this a fascinating destination. Skal!
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4 thoughts on “Vikings in Sweden 2023”
If you enjoyed the vikings of Sweden you should consider visiting Visby during the beginning of august for a week of medieval and viking festival, it’s truly amazing!
Sounds amazing – I’d love it!
Having visited Stockholm, I’ve had the opportunity to learn something of the Viking history, however this post gives greater insight into these people. Interesting post.
Such an interesting post – thank you. I’d never really considered a visit to Sweden but now after reading your post, perhaps I’ll add it to my next European trip.
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